A/N: I started this blog post the week I returned from Korea. It’s been 3 months since I left for this trip (exactly) and WILD to think what my life could look like in 3 months from now. ;) Enjoy my “way too long yet not long enough” blog post with photos and videos, some that I’ve never shared before!!!
Wow, I can’t believe that I’m writing this post. After nearly a year of planning, my two week trip to South Korea and Japan ended. I’m writing this with a hot mug of coffee, while Midwest thunderstorms roll across the city outside my office window and birds sing their springtime songs. It’s never been a desire of mine to solo travel- typically I just get so much anxiety and my decision-making skills tank when all the planning falls to me alone. Yet, when all my possible travel partners declined, I had no choice but to make the trip myself! Reddit and the rest of the internet assured me that these are two of the easiest, safest countries to travel solo (even as a woman) …so I mustered my courage and credit card points to set out on my biggest adventure yet!
What I wish I’d done as far as planning:
-make a list of meals to try: I ate a lot of things I wanted to (gimbap, c-store snacks/foods, kbbq and ttokbokki) and even things I hadn’t planned on (like dak-galbi and Sotbap at Solsot!) but I wish I’d had kimchi jjigae and jjajangmyeon and mandu in Korea.
-done more shopping: I was worried about my luggage space (since my international flights would allow 2 free checked bags, but my flight from SK to Japan got only one for free) so I did barely any shopping in Korea. I think the prices in Korea were better for a lot of things, and I saw a few pieces at UNIQLO that I never found in Japan, and I never went into a Daiso or Olive Young (can you BELIEVE it!?).
What surprised me:
-didn’t feel too bad as far as stairs go (maybe Japan is worse, or I just wasn’t in the right area) but I definitely noticed the HILLS! thankfully, I prepared the last 6 months on the stairmaster, so it wasn’t awful!
-not getting water at restaurants, or when you do, the cups are SMALL! often it’s also self-serve (esp if the banchan is at a self-serve station).
-cooler than expected: I’m unsure if this was the forecast changing, or that it’s April- and less humid yet than Iowa can be. I should have packed a sweatshirt or another jacket/sweater to layer with!
-waterfountains (or lack thereof). I don’t remember seeing any? except in the airport!
-photobooth shops are unmanned- at least the ones I visited! Just goes to show how trustworthy the culture is- because most of them have props (headbands, sunglasses, etc) and people don’t steal them! Well, and there is CCTV everywhere. So take that for what it’s worth!!
Day Zero: Travel - drive to airport. wait for delayed airplane. get on airplane. try to sleep. disembark. go through customs & get baggage. withdraw won and purchase Limo Bus ticket. find guesthouse. sleep!
Day One: Rainy Saturday
My first day was not my hardest. In fact, it was so easy- and I’m eternally grateful for that. My lodging host was kind, and showed me an umbrella I could use since it rained/drizzled all day. I purchased a triangle kimbap and t-money card at the CU across the street, and was able to load money on it with my cash from the airport. Public Transport was just as simple as EVERYONE told me, and I found the way to my destination- the National Museum of Korea- with ease. Oh, and I bumped into friends from the airport bus! We had lunch together (and later dinner) …so nice to have people to chat with and not be totally alone all day. :)
even a foggy, rainy saturday is full of wonder in Korea!!
Day Two: Sunny Sunday!
I began my Sunday with leftover chicken wings for breakfast, and then hopped back onto public transport to head towards Seocho. I found a cafe and ordered my first coffee (SO huge for like $2.50!?) and then made my way to the church I wanted to visit. Even though I’ve grown up in the church family, and had a decent amount of experiences attending new ones on my own, I felt a bit awkward going alone. However, the people were so kind and I quickly had some conversations that led to lunch with new friends from Spain!
this meal was SO good. would do again 10/10!!!
It’s so hard to pick highlights of my trip- but one of the key factors in this was the chance to see SoMang again. SoMang studied at the university in my hometown back in 2010-11, during my first year of college. I was still living at home & so I got to see her most weeks. I tried kimchi for the first time during that year (I didn’t like it- how the tables have turned!) and her sweet friendship has always been a sweet memory of that formative year.
Fast forward 14 years, and we met again- in HER home country! Wild to live it out, and even more to meet her husband and almost one year old son. :) They took me on a lot of adventures in the 6 hours we got to spend together- I’m looking forward to more connections with them in coming years!
Day Three: Monday Exploring
Seokchon Lake in spring is such a dream, and definitely worth fighting the crowds!!
Day Four: Train to Suwon
Tuesday was a long awaited meeting between me and my friend Dani! We’d been talking for months about meeting up in Seoul, and she flew in on Monday. So, Tuesday we met for breakfast at Isaac Toast in Myeongdong before venturing to the central Seoul Station! We got train tickets via the ITX train leaving at 10:23 for 4800 won (just over $3!). You get a train seat assigned, there’s wifi and outlets and it only takes about 30 minutes to get to Suwon. We asked for help at the station on how to get to the Fortress, and the info desk told us to take a city bus. A few bus stops later, we arrived and were able to walk around and see the fortress.
Of course, it was very sunny and a bit warm (but windy). Dani and I stopped for lunch at Ddeum - another pot rice spot!- and had a lovely meal before heading back out to explore. Suwon boasts many k-drama filming spots, and one of my very favorites (Lovely Runner from 2024) had key scenes filmed a few streets over, so we found it, alongside our first photobooth experience! Dani’s one request was to see the Suwon “Starfield Library”- so we took another bus to the mall and wandered around the huge shopping center until we finally discovered where it was.
I was honestly so tired (3 previous non-stop days!) so we snagged coffee at starbucks before finding our way back to the Suwon station and purchasing our home tickets. Actually, it was a bit funny- there was a man sleeping on the train in one of our seats, so we sat in neighboring spots. When the train attendant came through, she woke him up and we all realized that he was supposed to disembark at Suwon (but of course, didn’t wake for the stop). Oops!!
I ended my evening at my guesthouse with Ramen and RunJin before bed!!
Day Five: Exploring Solo
this cost me $5.80 and I couldn’t even finish it!
Wednesday I woke up feel like a bit of a cold was coming on, so I decided to try to find some soup for breakfast. Ssada Gimbap is a 24/7 chain restaurant, so I ordered seafood stew (she said it was spicy but I didn’t feel like it was!). Thanks to the free wifi (it’s everywhere!) I facetimed my best friend, who was eating her Tuesday dinner. Time zones are funny like that!!
After breakfast (and an outfit change thanks to a little splash of soup onto a light colored shirt :/…) I ventured out to explore on my own.
Walking (or biking or doing anything, really) along the Han River is such a classic Seoul activity. So, I packed my headphones and listened to a podcast while walking along the river. It was overcast and cool, but still delightful. The sun began peeking out as I decided it was time to find something to eat. I wandered until I found a cafe, and ordered a pastry & coffee. People came and went, eating with coworkers and friends. I journaled, and processed and listened to music until I was ready to walk on to the next. Flowers (꽃) all over the city were making appearances!
I decided to see what was blooming at the national Cemetery, so I took transit there and enjoyed people and flower watching- including some school groups, extended families, retired couples, and some young ROKA guys. It was a great way to spend some extra time before my evening plans.
Dinner was authentic K-BBQ, in the lower level (basement) of an area packed with restaurants. We then walked around the lake to see the flowers lit up, and the Sarah and I took the metro back to our respective neighborhoods.
seoul sisters!!!
Day Six: Princess Vibes!
One of the things I KNEW I had to do when visiting Seoul, was rent Hanbok. Hanbok is the name for traditional Korean clothing, which can be worn by both men and women. My friend Dani and I both hoped to do this, and made plans to go together to a rental shop. While waiting for her, I found a cute mirror install in the subway station, ate a delicious early lunch at Gupo Noodles, right off the subway line. Upon Dani’s arrival, we picked a rental shop and were quickly whisked through choosing skirts, tops, being dressed, and having our hair done in the fashion of our choice. You can rent a locker, so we left our belongings and headed toward the main attraction- Gyeongbokgung Palace!!
Dani’s request was finding lunch (she hadn’t eaten, it was hot and like 2pm) so we found an incredible “all you can eat ttokbokki bar” spot. I still think back fondly on this meal, sharing it with her was so fun! Then we hustled over to the historic Bukchon Village to see the stunning 600 year old homes before they close to the public. There are many shops nestled in the neighborhood, so we peeked into windows along our walk. As we left, we hopped into a c-store for the famous “korean convenience store iced coffee” (for her) and the iconic Bungeoppang Ice Cream for me.
Another fun adventure that I didn’t plan -Cheonggyecheon! It’s a revived stream/park space that winds through downtown and ends up connecting to the Han River. We ever so magically caught the sunset there, and ended back in Myeongdong for shopping at Line Friends & street food for dinner. It was so sad to leave each other, but I know that we both have such good memories of our time together, and perhaps we’ll meet again someday!!
wearing Hanbok
exploring the Hanok Village!
eating ttokbooki at an “all you can eat” ttok bar!!!
a gorgeous evening along Cheonggyecheon Stream
Day Seven: Last Day
Ah, the last day. I spend most of it alone, and definitely had the most anxiety then. (Again - not eating a proper meal until 1pm doesn’t help with that….) I’d heard that there’s an up-and-coming neighborhood, a sort of arts district, so I headed over there. Honestly, I’m not sure what I was expecting …but I didn’t really find anything much (also, it was early for K-Time). I ended up subwaying back to Mapo and exploring the university grounds there (👀) after a gimbap lunch from the sweetest aunties at Gimbap Cheonguk!
I had wanted to go shopping for gifts and goodies, but the only time it worked for me to meet one of my online friends was Friday afternoon. So, I made the trek across the city (yes I did spend a lot on transport this day oops) to her neighborhood of Gangnam. A little window shopping to kill time, and then I wandered to our planned meeting spot to read until her arrival. As one would expect, the cafe was very bougie feeling, the barista spot flawless english, and the music was VERY loud lol. I think it also has an attached shop for fancy clothing/items? I don’t fully understand Gangnam (nor the world of luxury shopping, as a midwest raised girlie) but I do appreciate aesthetics. ;)
I walked back to see the sunset along the Han one last time, appreciating the picnic-ers and Seoul Tower- then a VERY packed bus ride to Myeongdong where I met Sarah for the last time. We feasted on conveyer belt sushi, and then enjoyed coin Noraebang and one final photobooth before parting ways! I added my leftover cash onto my t-money card for the future in subway, purchased a few socks (if you got any from me, this was likely when I found them) at the underground subway mall, and headed home to pack and sleep one last night.
Part one: DONE! Let’s see how long it takes me to get to Japan….